Otter WaxFabric Wax Bar | Large Bar | Durable Rain Protection | Made in the USA | Waterproof Canvas, Shoes, Hats, Jacket, Bags, Outdoor Gear, Clothing | All-Natural & Effective Beeswax Waterproofer

Bought this to waterproof a wind breaker and some hiking pants.One block lasted one jacket and one and a half pair of adult hiking pants. Did a water spray test. It’s definitely waterproof, I’ll see how well it lasts on trail.

Otter Wax works well on my canvas tent to shed water.

If you follow the instructions on the packaging, then the wax will ruin whatever article of clothing you put it on. The notion that smearing a thick coating of beeswax on something like a duck canvas coat, letting it cure for a day, and then wearing it...is idiotic. If you like getting everything sticky your coats touches, then by all means follow the instructions on the box. If you like a shiny, streaky finish on your clothing, then by all means follow the instructions on the box. If you like white bits of dried wax to leave smudges all over your other clothes, then by all means follow the instructions on the box.Now that we've covered how NOT to use this product, let's get down to why this stuff is a great and necessary purchase. Animal fibers, such as wool, and manufactured fabrics like polyester are water repellant and quick drying. Cotton is not and is a huge and literally heavy pain if it gets wet. Otter Wax is designed to add a layer of water repellant to cotton clothing. Here's how you should apply the wax to achieve this effect. I used it on a coat, so that will be my point of reference.Here's what you'll need:-Otter Wax-Wagner 0503008 HT1000 1,200-watt Heat Gun or a hair dryer. The heat gun works much more quickly.-A king sized pillow case that you have no intention of using on a pillow ever again. King Pure-Cotton Pillow Case Covers - (2-Pack, each 20 inches x 40 inches, White) 100% Cotton for Maximum Softness and Easy Care, Elegant Double-Stitched Tailoring - By Utopia Bedding are cheap and will do the job just fine.1) Make sure the article to which you're applying the wax is both clean and bone-dry. I cannot overemphasize this. If the cotton is in any way wet the wax will not stick to the fabric.2) Apply the wax using short and firm strokes to the entire article of clothing. Make sure to cover every crevice, seam, and around every button. The coat should have a chalky-white look to it.3) Hang the article of clothing to dry. You should give it 24 hours.4) Put the article of clothing in the pillow case, tie the case shut, and throw the clothing into the dryer for about an hour on medium heat. This will melt much of the wax into the item and save you some work. When you remove the clothing from the dryer it will have a distressed look and still be a bit waxy.5) With slow back and forth swipes, use the heat gun to melt the remaining wax. You'll see the white residue liquefy and absorb into the cotton. Don't worry if there are patches of what look like grease stains after the wax melts. This is just a patch where you applied slightly more wax than the surrounding area. It will fade over time.6) Hang the item for another 24 hours. This last bit of drying time is critical. It allows the wax to set. If you wear the article immediately the distressed white patches will form at, for example, the elbow of your coat. The bending motion will "wring" the wax out of the fibers.7) You should follow these steps about once per year.And there you have it. Water will bead right off your clothing. As a personal opinion, I wouldn't recommend using this on pants. The near constant friction would wring or scrape away the wax too quickly to make the whole application process worth it.

I have a Barbour wax jacket and another similar style Belstaff that is cotton, but I plan to use in Seattle so wax would be nice on the Belstaff. It is challenging to get on. I would rub it onto the flat fabric, seams, pockets, etc and then heat areas, rub in, apply a little more, and heat/rub again. There is no question the jacket is waxed, but the look isnt OEM. It has wrinkles like old worn leather and not in a cool way, but old and weathered.I used 1/3-1/2 bar on a XL jacket, so I do not believe I over applied. If you goal is to weatherproof, then this may be for you. If you have a nice jacket and want it to stay great looking, then you need more skill than me or consider a different product.

This is a high quality water repellent although it takes a little muscle and a little time if you properly apply this to your dusters and such you won't have any complaints a little heavier on the seams and the best way to get it to settle into materials is a hair dryer on high

Otter Wax is A-MAZ-ING!!! I am laying in the tent drop down bed of our 16 year old hybrid camper in the rain and not a DROP of moisture !! No wet soggy pillows, no cold soaked blankets.I have tried several other products and nothing worked. The hybrid has tent ends made of vinyl but the window flaps are made of canvas. The canvas window flaps and zippers were leaking in the rain. They would saturate and the water would then draw up into the inner cloth side of the vinyl when ever it rained, even lightly. All the bedding and pads would then become soaked as well. It was miserable!!After each time it rained when we used the camper we had to open it all up when we got home and let it dry for days. Pull all the pads and let them dry and dry all the bedding and pillows. And each time I would start the process over, researching for waterproofing products, get one, apply it, try it and it would fail. The biggest problem is most waterproofing products cant be used on vinyl and there is no way to apply it to the canvas without getting it on the vinyl.And then I found OTTER WAX!! Its chemical free ingredients make it safe for vinyl and canvas. I bought a bar and applied it generously to the entire external surface of the tent ends. I applied it on a hot sunny day and worked it into the fabric taking care to get into the groves and undersides of zipper seams. I applied it to the screens and worked it into the canvas window flaps inside and out. The heat of the day softened the wax making it easy to work into the fabric and crevices.Fast forward to this camping trip. It stormed and rained heavily from early evening through the night and was raining when I woke up. NOT a wet spot to be found on either bed end. This morning, I'm laying in my tent bed all cozy and dry writing this review. Thank you to the genius person/people that developed and marketed this product and the otters that inspired it!! Chefs kiss from the bottom of my not all wet campers heart!! ♡

I waxed a hat with this by scrubbing it on, worked it in with a wooden tool and heat gun. I used very little of the wax bar. I estimate I will be able to re-wax an entire coat and still have at least half of the bar left over. It was unbelievably easy to do as this was my first attempt at waxing cloth. There is no odor to the wax. It make the hat completely rain-proof and retained the softness of the material.