KBS Coatings 8114 High Gloss Diamond Finish Clear Watercolor Aerosol, Covers 35 sq ft, 16 Ounce (Pack of 1)

I used this to finish a guitar pedal that I was building. Since I'll be stepping on it, it needed to be very hard and I wanted the finish to be clear gloss so I could read the labels on it. This stuff is really good. Very, very hard, and perfectly clear. I put on many thin coats and I only did it on warm days with low humidity based on the reviews I'd read here. Worked wonderful,

Used to seal coat my aluminum valve covers. Great product. Good adhesion, perfect gloss level, beautiful finish.

I am writing this review after 2< years of application on a motorcycle fairing. The original result came out great, pretty uniform satin finish and was pretty strong. (Hard to leave a mark on the underside, which I had also clear coated to test and hide the finish)This fairing goes on the front of my bike so it takes a decent amount of abuse; from bug guts to rock chips, it seemed to hold up pretty well and after a wash and very light polish (just to wipe away dirt, etc) it looked promising.At about the 1 or so year mark, I noticed that the clear itself became weak... I had to remove some stubborn bug guts that weren't scrubbing off with a microfiber, so in comes the 91% alcohol... it didn't hold up and the finish fogged/clouded up. The bug guts somehow got impregnated into the clear, must have been over the period of about a month or 2 on there, have not had that happen with any 2k clear coat and was not expecting this to. Keep in mind this is a garage kept bike, I suspect I have about a year or less before it completely goes the way of honda clear coats from the mid 2000s.Anyhow, this is a great product for short term/medium duty items... something you don't mind redoing every other year... if you are putting it on a car/motorcycle, DONT. Use a 2k clear instead.Pictures provided are 2 years after application, with very light buffing to hide the wear over time, the faded/clouded spot is where the bug guts were and the alcohol dissolving it on a 5 second application...I would imagine gasoline or acidic rain would do worse.

I have had my disappointments in KBS products. The 2k Max is a good coating BUT it only comes with a moderate reducer and that will not work in hot climates at all. It must have a slow slow reducer. The fact they sell it with a moderate reducer in hot climates is flatly a ripoff. They should know better. I have told them. Those who work with clears know this is the single most important factor. Clears require surface melt. In a hot climate, using a moderate reducer, all you get is orange peel.That said, the Diamond Clearcoat Single Stage Gloss is an underrated Clear. It is a single-stage in a world of "YOUTUBE PAINT EXPERTS" OMG, that do nothing more than echo two-stage clears based on one idea which is cross-linking. The concept of crosslinking is that once cured you can spay something on top of it. That is a fallacy. Spray clear on a prior clear and you could get lift off and peel from hell. And sometimes with 2k clear, it can peel off in sheets for crosslinking on the surface of a prior coating and not adhering. 2k Clears can surprise in a very bad way.I don't care what two-stage you use, you can easily get a solvent reaction while wet. The Diamond single stage is moisture cured and I have never had it react to a cured surface including INDUSTRIAL ENAMEL. Try to remember that Picasso loved industrial enamels. They have a richness lacking in any other kind of paint. I digress.The Diamond Clear in the spray can be used to remedy bad or non-adherent clear. It can be used to spot flaws after spotting in some basecoat or paint coat. It is amazing how well it does in these kinds of applications. On Youtube the idiot will tell you to sand down the entire door panel for example. I say that's nuts. Spotting flaws works great. Breached edges are where you get into difficulty.It is possible with the spray can to get a little overspray. That is where the 1000 sandpaper comes in. It will smooth the miro orange peel easily. If you are going to do large areas then buy the Diamond Clear in a pint or quart and use Thinner or Xylene ONLY and 10%-15% is normally adequate. DiamondFinish Clear can be thinned up to 30%. Thinning helps it flow but it also helps it drip. Remember Xylene is a solvent so it can react with undercoats. So I don't recommend thinning. Just keep your wet edge and it will melt nicely. Any overspray can be easily tamed by 1000 sand and an orbital DA.While KBS claims it is clear that is not actually true. It has a slight amber cast if put on at 2 mils thick. In Hot climates, I encourage 3 mil thicknesses and sanding before buffing with 1000, 1500. and 2000. That will make buffing to a marvellous plastic shine and enough thickness to block UV. Try to remember that Clear obtains its UV protection by thickness, not some pretend additive to block UV. No such additive exists. So it must be thick. Hot climates are full of cars with peeling clear. Hoods get direct sunlight and under the hood the engine gets hot. So go thick in a hot climate.I say that Diamond Clear single stage is vastly underrated due to a large amount of noise made by the "car painting youtube crowd." These are clowns that think a $500 spay gun makes you a pro. There is no truth to this or a thousand other myths. Diamond Clear single stage is just as good as 2k clear and less toxic, less dangerous to use, and if you have a screw up you can STOP. With 2k you have a paint gun full of catalyzing clear that has to be used OR WASTED.I am an artist... I leave you with this sentiment... that you may all be artists in your own way.... and being an artist means you must find your own way...“A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist.” Louis Nizer

I got this for my beater commuter. The roof was rusting, making me worried that it could start leaking. I wanted something durable and easy to apply. It couldn’t peel or flake, and needed to endure hot Atlanta summers all day long.After an entire summer season, this stuff has met all my expectations.I didn’t do much else than sand off the loose rust and wash the car with dish soap. I Sprayed on the roof three coats. I didn’t polish or buff the coat, because I only cared about protection.This clear coat has been flawless. No peeling or flaking. No hazing in the sun. I’m sure if I put in effort to buff it, it would look good too.

I just wanted a light coat of clear to adhere firmly to bare aluminum (6061-T6) that I sanded to 2000 grit. I didn’t need a mirror finish, but a finish with some shine. I need protection from corrosion on the aluminum tubes and fittings for my ultralight glider… not from weather so much but from handling since it will be a fair weather machine. Researched for months and found this stuff… it is AWESOME! It’s light, goes on really nice and levels beautifully (it’s thin so spray light coats). I used their spray cans very effectively and it dries fairly quickly to touch ( about 2 hours) but cures up to 2 or 3 days. All the aviation folk said to use epoxy with a UV coat over it, or to use Cortec VpCl-373. Noooo way. This KBS diamond clear is so much better at adhering to bare metal! And frankly, I love the smell after it has dried over a day or so! Those complaining about the smell are way to sensitive… it is not bad at all and is only slightly smelly after it cures, but goes away over a few weeks unless you put your nose up to the metal. Not even an issue. This stuff is tuff flexible and glossy, even with a light coat or two. HIGHLY RECOMMEND!!!